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          #SuzyCouture: Jean Paul Gaultier: A Chinoiserie Take On French Couture

          作者:Suzy Menkes 編輯:張一杰 時間:2019年1月26日
          內容來源:VOGUE時尚網  圖片來源:VOGUE國際網站:英國

          文章導讀

          The designer swam forward from his familiar shore line

          敬請期待中文版

          Marine stripes and inspiration from the Far East both featured in Gaultier's designs for Spring/Summer 2019

          Getty Images

          They say that it takes three designers coming up simultaneously with the same idea to create a trend. In that case, the cap-berets, so much in evidence for the summer 2019 season, are the most obvious contenders.

          Marine stripes even made their way to the socks in Gaultier's show

          Getty Images

          Jean Paul Gaultier, so well known for his interpretation of the French sailor look, opened with marine stripes for a top, and – why not? – the socks. Meanwhile, from the crow's nest, you could see all manner of headgear except sailor caps. Sculpted hair, as a feature of many of this season's shows, sat atop Gaultier’s models’ hair-do’s, topping each look with a splurge of colour.

          Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2019

          Getty Images

          But there was something different: a dramatic uplift of the shoulder line that made me think instantly of ‘Chinoiserie on Sea'. That is the name of a millinery collection by Stephen Jones, which will be shown in Brighton in the UK, next month.

          Burlesque performer Dita Von Teese on the catwalk for Jean Paul Gaultier

          Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com

          How brilliant of Jean Paul to take something of his own heritage and make it fresh with Chinese and Japanese elements. Although the show rushed off in various directions (think Dita Von Teese in busty top and sheer dress) before the designer did his iconic run down the catwalk.

          Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2019

          Getty Images

          The collection was built on pleats, stripes and shoulders that swoosh upwards. But the show also neatly contained all sorts of outfits that the designer presented with careless ease. A black-and-white dress, whose stripes ran straight up from the ankle to turn a curve at one shoulder, was a marvel of high-fashion skills.

          Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2019

          Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com

          Relatively speaking, this was a calm Gaultier couture show with Chinese and Japanese elements created for bravado rather than kitsch.

          Maybe the success of the designer’s 'Fashion Freak Show’, extended in Paris until 21 April, has drawn the burlesque tendencies away from his fashion events.

          But watch this new look that embraces the Far East. The shark-shaped shoulders and fan-pleated boots will surely swim a long way.

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